Now I’ve Stripped My Car, What’s Next? MUSCLE CARS & HOT RODS Episode 219
Posted by Cryptkeeper in Bodywork on 11 18th, 2011 | 12 responses
Metal Prepping, etch priming, epoxy primer…
12 Responses to “Now I’ve Stripped My Car, What’s Next? MUSCLE CARS & HOT RODS Episode 219”
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Another good one! Thanks Jeff!
I think bodyfillers have etching properties in the resins because when testing I’ve had filler lift primer and other filler if you don’t add a hardener. So I believe both ways work. I sand the car with 80 and 36/80 where filler is need, and then finally 2K epoxy. I wait on the epoxy because that stuff aint cheap. lol
Use KBS Coatings on the back side of welds, if you can get to it! That stuff will find pin holes in welds that you wouldn’t find with a light! The KBS will seal them too.
Hey James, I did body work on a striped down to metal 69 Firebird, didn’t primer it, pushed it outside, and let it sit for 3-4 years. I sold the car and the new owner wanted to have me paint it. So I started taking out the body work and guess what… Under all the filler there was zero rust! I couldn’t believe it myself. Maybe it’s the California weather.
I had used POR-15, but the price is kinda high now, so I switched to KBS.
Nice on Jeff. One of the best tips was keep your hands off the car. Where I am you can’t leave bare metal exposed very long. If you put you hand on it there will be a rusty hand print there the next day.
love the new shop meetings! epoxy on bare metal 100% agreed!! over the welds tho i would also use epoxy first before any type of filler fiberglass or not. you can get pin holes in your fiberglass just the same as regular filler. putting a coat of epoxy down first just ensures that rust protection to 99.9%. i recently graduated from a well known collision program and all they kept pushing was epoxy over any and all bare metal before any type of body work takes place.
I love these meetings. I’m learning lots, and having things explained why we should do things not just how. Makes more sense that way.
Great series.
I am learning from each shop meeting.
Looking forward to the next one.
good video jeff,all these tips are much needed and appreciated,looking forward to more,thankx
Good info James
question, etch and epoxy versus stone chips
which of the two protects the surrounding metal after a stone has chipped through to the metal
i thought one of the reasons etch was so highly used was it stays stuck to the panel around a stone chip area not allowing the water to creep under the coating to form the big rust blisters
is that true of etch and does epoxy stay stuck in the area after a stone chip
and what about ‘hot zinc’ coating? or glavinizing
great vids! thank you ~Josh
@messylaura if the stone chip is to the metal…it’s to the metal which means its an unprotected area. the etch primer is effected by solvents meaning if you take a rag with thinners to etch it will rub off. if you take a rag and thinners to epoxy it will not. if a stone chip chips thru the paint and not the primer. i would rather epoxy be there than etch cause road salts and other elements will wear away etch alone. i gues that is why guys are useing a combination of the two. hope this helps